Roberto Cavalli and Jose Pedro Godoy
With the arrival of new creative director Paul Sarridge at Roberto Cavalli, the Italian brand began a new, very curious chapter. The designer is able to please the old audience, which expects glamorous things from the brand, and attract a new one. In the collection of the pre-fall 2019 season, he uses the work of the Chilean artist Jose Pedro Godoy: leopards and tropical flowers, painted like neon lights, Sarridge transfers to the jacquard fabric. In fact, the same “predatory” prints for which they love Roberto Cavalli are obtained, but they look fresh, modern and not at all vulgar.
Dior and Sonia Delaunay
If you delve into the archives of Dior, it turns out that Delaunay was adored by the former creative director of the fashion house, Mark Boan. In 1968, he collaborated with the artist to make a dress for Francoise Ardi, and in later collections by the designer fragments of Delaunay’s works can be found on coats and fur coats. The abstract style of the artist was also inspired by Maria Grazia Curie: embroideries and prints on blouses, skirts and sweaters are built on the artist’s favorite forms and color combinations.
Salvatore Ferragamo and Agnolo Bronzino
Brand new designer Paul Andrew rethinks the legacy of the Florentine fashion house with an eye on Italian art. For example, he does not hide the fact that he took the palette of the collection of the pre-fall 2019 season from the portraits of Agnolo Bronzino, a 16th-century Florentine artist. Autumn colors, shining light, an outstanding, but cold palette is perfectly suited to perfectly tailored suits, strict coats and leather sets.
Erdem and Laura Knight
Designer Erdem Moralioglu dedicates the collection of the pre-fall 2019 season to the artist Laura Knight. The lookbook is not just filmed at the Royal Academy of Arts: in 1936, Knight became the first woman to be admitted to the full membership of the Academy of Arts. However, in her biography there were other no less impressive facts: for example, during World War II, Laura Knight received the official post of military artist, and in 1946 she covered the Nuremberg trial of Nazi war criminals. Moralioglu takes the combination of colors from the artist’s works, and in some images she repeats Knight’s own style, which wore strict suits, blouses with bows and hats.
Off-White and the art group Alterazioni Video
The inscription Incompiuto (translated from Italian – incomplete) on T-shirts and bags from the new Off-White collection refers to the project of the Italian art group Alterazioni Video about unfinished buildings in Italy. For ten years, artists traveled to Tuscany and Sicily and photographed unfinished and abandoned buildings, work on which began in the 1980s, but never ended (for various reasons, be it design mistakes, bankruptcy of builders or political turmoil). Virgil Ablo wanted to convey this “incompleteness” in the new collection: denim as if not completely whitened, the sets look like walls with unfinished graffiti. Also, the art group Alterazioni Video made a set design for shooting a lookbook.